Goban kaya6/26/2023 Please note that Go Stones are not included with thisīoard.Approx. The craftsmanship isĮxquisite and the joins are virtually invisible on the playing One of the very best woods for Go equipment. Solid chunks of Shin Kaya (Alaskan Spruce), generally accepted as Would therefore serve as a fine alternative to a Goban with legs.Įxtremely high quality board manufactured in Korea, made from It measures approxiamtely 6cm in height and Stones can be added separately, or take a look at ourĪ stunning Go board that is completely solid, wonderfully craftedĪnd very chunky. Please note that Go stones are not included with any of theseīoards. Hesitate to contact us if you have any questions about any of our To the finest, authentic, Japanese-made boards. Suit all abilities and budgets, from scaled-down beginner boards ![]() We have hand-picked the best Go boards to Here you will find our impressive selection of floor and table Kaya has the properties as described above, it is quite soft (nice sound), the colour is light (yellowish) and the grain is subtle. Competition boards, the ones which are in photos of Go World, are typically made of the Japanese Kaya wood. Imported from USA (Sizes & Specifications are based on the USA Market). Choose a type of plywood that is not too dark.Manufactured in Korea from solid chunks of Shin Kaya (Alaskan Spruce) Shin Kaya is widely accepted as one of the best woods for Go equipment Wood joins are almost invisible on the playing surface Over 6cm thick and beautifully finished A stunning Goban for even the most discerning of tastes.I guess i'll start by calling those tassie blokes and see what woods are recommended, or stocked for that matter. I don't have a lot of experience with fine work, i've built a decent amount of things out of wood but the goal has always been function and strength over workmanship, so something like this is a little out of my depth. The easiest (and still not easy) is to varnish, draw lines, then varnish again, but not sure if this will provide the look i want.Īs for tapering, i don't know anything about that, but i would be trying to follow the specifications i have found: If i'm oiling the wood then using ink could be a problem, burning is too unpredictable. I've read that marking the lines can be tricky. Not 100% sure how that would work out though, would they stay put, or peel out? I'm not sure about the finishing process, i'll need to do more research regarding what the traditional finish is.Īs for the lines, i had thought to buy thread from a jeweller (platinum / silver or something) and tap them into the wood as the lines. I suppose Celery pine would be better, because you don't want the board to dent. I have other problems for the other game pieces but this is the biggest obstacle at the moment.Ĭelery Pine is a bit harder, huon pine is a bit softer. I am hoping there is an Australian wood which makes a comparable sound which i can track down a nice big pre-dried chunk of (since it won't have time to dry in that time). It is for my dads 60th which is in August. I imagine the sound is a result of both the grain and density, so those would be more important than colour, but it's also important for the wood to be durable.Ī high quality board is in fact a small table, with the table section being maybe 15-21cm thick, supported by stumpy little legs. But the most important thing for me is the sound. ![]() The best Go boards are made from a Japanese pine called the Kaya (torreya nucifera), because of the colour, grain, and the sound that it makes when struck with a stone. I want to make a traditional Go Board, but with substituted Australian materials. ![]() This is quite a niche question so i'm hoping someone can help.
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